The ultimate Kobe beef journey: On the road in Japan with Tokyo’s Wagyumafia
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The ultimate Kobe beef journey: On the route in Japan with Tokyo'south Wagyumafia
Loved by celebrities similar David Beckham, Ed Sheeran and others, Wagyumafia is arguably Japan's coolest Kobe beef purveyor. CNA Luxury joins charismatic chef and founder Hisato Hamada on a sojourn from auction to kitchen.
Hisato Hamada, the charismatic chef and founder of Wagyumafia, is famous for his dramatic poses. (Photo: Instagram/Wagyumafia)
05 Feb 2022 06:30AM (Updated: 21 May 2022 12:54PM)
All roads lead to Rome, only all wagyu roads pb to Kobe. And if wagyu is Champagne, then Kobe is Dom Perignon, believes the Vice Governor of Hyogo Prefecture, home to the famously expensive, exclusive and sought-after Tajima wagyu beef, more usually known every bit Kobe.
As statements of intent virtually arguably the world'southward finest beef go, the aforementioned couldn't be clearer.
We're in Kobe at the showtime of a week with Wagyumafia – the world's coolest Kobe purveyors loved by celebrities like David Beckham, Ed Sheeran and many more than – that will reveal and so much about the incredible marbled and effortlessly melting beefiness. Wagyumafia currently accept iv restaurants in Tokyo, one in Hong Kong, an imminent opening in Manila and plans for more effectually the world.
Starting time, a quick reminder on what makes it so special. "Wa-gyu" but translates every bit Japanese moo-cow, the most common breed of which is the Japanese Black which has three bloodlines – Tajima, Kedaka and Shimana.
However, only pure Tajima, bred, raised and slaughtered in Hyogo Prefecture, can be certified as Kobe beefiness. Only around 4,000 cattle a twelvemonth make this grade, the vast majority of which are for domestic consumption, hence the global scarcity – and correspondingly high price.
Hisato Hamada, the charismatic chef and founder of Wagyumafia, famed for his photo poses, was joined by five stellar chefs from around the world for the weeklong Kobe Beef Summit: Richie Lin from Mume in Taipei, Paul Carmichael from Momofuku Seiobo in Sydney, Jordy Navarra from Manila's Toyo Eating house, Richard Ekkebus from Hong Kong's Amber and finally Tomos Parry from Brat in London.
In the mountains ii hours northward of Kobe, nosotros started with incredibly rare access to the 101st Kobe beefiness auction. Buyers and farmers crammed into a compact amphitheatre space to bid upward to US$90,000 (South$122,000) for only ane moo-cow. Every bit they did so, auctioneers in orange robes chosen out the prices, before farmers who paw raised the cattle then provided cheers gifts of flowers or sake to the buyers.
The auction and surrounding pens were spotlessly make clean, without the usual farmyard smells – and besides very quiet. Why? Seemingly because they're so relaxed and happy, leading lives where they're very well looked after, rarely more than 150 to 200 animals on whatsoever i subcontract.
Herds are so small-scale partly due to the lack of grazing infinite, meaning they invariably grow upwards in barns, something which helps them develop their famously marbled flesh. Kobe wagyu is up to 25 pct marbled fat, a stunning figure compared to USDA Prime which runs around viii percent.
And sorry to disappoint, but those myths about beingness fed beer, given massages and played classical music? All bull, equally it were, at least co-ordinate to one of the farmers we spoke to:
"I have 150 cows – if I massaged them I wouldn't have time to do anything else!"
Another heir-apparent at the auction was Wagyumafia's Hamada, snapping up the second near expensive moo-cow for US$65,000. In total, he buys around 100 total-grown Kobe cattle each year for his growing restaurant empire, one nosotros were to run across in full flow.
The almost Instagram-friendly way that Wagyumafia serve it is in their famous "sando" sandwiches, the Chateaubriand version of which can run a cool US$180. Hamada's trademark sando pose has also become Instagram gilded in itself. A recently-opened Yakinikumafia spot lets you lot grill your own, while you can also #slurplikeaboss – their words – with some of the world'southward almost expensive and decadent beef noodle soup.
The final night of the Top bought a very special menu of dishes crafted past the 5 chefs featuring Kobe. Richard Ekkebus chose the 147-day anile striploin, serving it with seaweed, kabocha and steak sauce.
Tomos Parry, famed for his grill restaurant in London'due south Due east End, cooked skewers over binchotan charcoal, serving them with a vibrant accept on salsa verde, all while trying to catch updates from his beloved Wales during the Rugby world loving cup.
The most striking dish was the "jewel box", an aptly-named explosion of decadence where rice provided the base for Kobe, uni, caviar, the finest tuna and much more besides.
Hamada was clearly delighted to have spent a week with his fellow chefs and could non have been prouder to see them cooking his beloved Kobe: "It'southward been my dream to showcase our beefiness to the world. When I started exploring this industry it was very old-fashioned – not in a bad way – only it was difficult to alter things. It's interesting to meet how we've changed and evolved to now showcase this cute wagyu through the dishes of these v incredible chefs."
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Source: https://cnalifestyle.channelnewsasia.com/experiences/kobe-beef-wagyumafia-japan-177186
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